Calculate correct camera exposure settings — aperture, shutter speed, and ISO — using the exposure triangle. Includes EV compensation, ND filter stops, and reciprocity guidance.
The Camera Exposure Calculator helps you determine the correct combination of aperture, shutter speed, and ISO for any lighting situation. Enter two of the three exposure settings and the calculator finds the third, or enter all three to see the resulting Exposure Value (EV) and how far the setup sits from a typical baseline.
Understanding exposure is essential for photography. The exposure triangle — aperture, shutter speed, and ISO — works together to control how much light reaches the sensor. Changing one setting requires compensating with another to maintain the same brightness. This calculator makes those relationships clear instead of leaving you to guess on the camera screen.
Beyond basic exposure math, this tool includes ND filter compensation, EV equivalency tables, and reciprocity guidance for film photographers. Whether you're shooting landscapes on a tripod, freezing sports action, or working in low light, these calculations help you match the exposure you want more confidently.
Use this calculator when you want to translate a lighting situation into usable camera settings instead of relying on trial and error. It is helpful for manual exposure work, ND filter planning, and situations where you need the same brightness with different creative tradeoffs while balancing shutter speed, depth of field, and noise.
EV = log₂(f² / t) where f = f-number, t = shutter speed in seconds. EV at ISO 100 = EV + log₂(ISO/100). Equivalent exposure: changing one stop in any parameter requires a one-stop opposite change in another.
Result: EV 13
EV = log₂(8² / (1/125)) = log₂(8000) ≈ 13. This corresponds to bright daylight. Changing to f/5.6 would require 1/250s to maintain the same exposure.
Aperture controls the size of the lens opening. Wider apertures (lower f-numbers like f/1.4) let in more light and create shallow depth of field. Narrower apertures (higher f-numbers like f/16) let in less light but keep more of the scene in focus.
Shutter speed controls how long the sensor is exposed. Fast speeds (1/1000s) freeze motion; slow speeds (1s) blur motion and require a tripod. ISO controls the sensor's sensitivity — higher values amplify the signal but also amplify noise.
Neutral density filters are essential for long exposures in daylight. Without an ND filter, shooting at f/16, ISO 100, in bright sun gives about 1/125s — far too fast for motion blur effects. A 10-stop ND filter brings that to 8 seconds, enough to smooth water or blur clouds. Stack a 6-stop and a 3-stop for 9 stops total. Always calculate the compensated shutter speed before shooting.
EV 0: Deep twilight. EV 4: Distant lit buildings at night. EV 8: Bright indoor lighting. EV 12: Overcast day. EV 15: Bright sunlight. EV 16: Bright snow or sand. Each step represents a doubling or halving of light.
EV is a single number representing a combination of aperture and shutter speed at ISO 100. It is a quick way to compare scenes and settings without reworking the whole exposure triangle each time. EV 0 = f/1.0 at 1 second, and each increment of 1 EV halves the light.
An ND filter reduces light by a fixed number of stops. A 3-stop ND means you need 3 stops more exposure — either open the aperture 3 stops, slow the shutter 3 stops, or raise ISO 3 stops to compensate.
On a sunny day, set aperture to f/16 and shutter speed to 1/ISO. At ISO 100, that's f/16 at 1/100s. At ISO 200, f/16 at 1/200s. It's a quick starting point without a light meter.
Generally yes. Higher ISO amplifies the sensor signal, which also amplifies noise. Modern cameras handle high ISO much better — ISO 3200 on a 2024 camera may look cleaner than ISO 800 on a 2010 camera.
Most lenses are sharpest 2-3 stops from wide open. A f/1.8 lens is typically sharpest around f/4-f/5.6. Beyond f/11-f/16, diffraction softens the image.
Auto mode optimizes for average brightness but doesn't know your creative intent. Understanding exposure lets you intentionally choose shallow depth of field, freeze motion, or create long-exposure effects.